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The west side of Rwanda is on the border with D. R. Congo and is bounded by Lake Kivu. The lake is shared between the two countries and it creates one of the hugest strings of freshwater along the Great Rift Valley. The lake is Rwanda’s largest lake and the 6th in Africa.
The side is beautiful, and the real joy of being in this area is driving on the stretch and through the towns between Volcanoes National Park and Nyungwe Forest National Park. The drive is on a slower route, the road has gentle back-forth curves and weaves through the mountains and hills beside Lake Kivu to Cyangugu from Gisenyi and the center point at Kibuye. The corners of the route produce gorgeous views, with trees lining the road, terraced hills with bananas, and a patchwork of small gardens tended to by waving locals.
There are three main towns around Lake Kivu and apart from each other by roughly a 3-4 hours drive. The roads are well constructed and now the journey can be shorter but those that love the adventure can take the Congo-Nile trail.
Gisenyi (Rubavu)
Referred to by its now-new name “Rubavu” and formerly Gisenyi, it is a large town spread on the northern side of Lake Kivu (on several hills). The area was once a colonial beach resort place, with the waterfront lined with fading old houses/ mansions and decent hotels including some standard hotels, and trendy bars on the shores, and these are ideal for sundowner cocktails as you relax by the shores in the afternoons. The Rubona area near Rubavu is home to a pretty number of Lakeside hotels.
What to do in Gisenyi (Rubavu)
Gisenyi has a public beach on the Gisenyi lakeshore that can get busy on the weekends. Some hotels here also have private beaches and some water sports options like Kayaking, and local boat tours. It is a top place for seeking retreats after adventures in Rwanda.
The town is a charming one to explore on foot. It has bustling markets and local food spots, rewarding guided walks to the hillside above the town to get the views of the town, Lake Kivu, and the Goma area of DRC. In the background of the town, is the Nyiragongo active volcano, this last erupted in 2021.
The town also marks the start of the Congo Nile Trail that runs 227km to Rusizi in the southwest of Rwanda. The trail is a great stretch for hiking and biking adventures. The area is also a top agro-tourism spot with various tea and coffee plantations.
Kibuye (Karongi)
Also on the Westside and on the shores of Lake Kivu some 100km south of Gisenyi. Formerly Kibuye, now known by its new name Karongi is one of it not the prettiest towns of Lake Kivu. It is a tropical spot with hills covered with eucalyptus and pine. Famous for the migrating Yellow-billed Kites flying over the Lake in August. It has hotels that are beautifully located and facing the lake, making it an ideal place to enjoy lakeside recreation.
What to do in Kibuye (Karongi)
While at Kibuye (Karongi) you can take a boat trip on Lake Kivu to the islands: Napoleon Island famous for its colony of fruit bats and Amahoro Island, which became popular locally for the sundowner bar set up on the island season! You can also visit Kibuye’s genocide memorial church, which is a brightly stained-glass-colored window church, in a quiet location on the hill above Lake Kivu. Despite a tragic history, it’s a place for peaceful contemplation.
Also, try the “From crop to cup” coffee experience.
Cyangugu (Rusizi)
On the southern end of Lake Kivu, Cyangugu (pronounced ‘Shangugu’ – the new name of Rusizi) is an old border town with fading façades that tell of its past as a vital trading point. It is a convenient base if you want to merge a stay on Lake Kivu with Nyungwe Forest National Park, as it is only 45 minutes away, but it has limited hotel options.
